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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.